Day 12 - Bampton to Bude

Leaving the pretty little town of Bampton we encoutered a 1/2 mile climb up to 600ft, and in this was shortly followed by a 1.5 mile climb to 710ft, welcome back to Devon.

This set the tone for the rest of the day. Nice scenery, monster climbs. Stopped at the pretty market town of South Molton for refreshments, Brian and Phil agreed that the coffee served by 'Jazz Lounge Bar' was the best on the whole trip. Visit and enjoy.


South Molton Town Hall


Jazz Lounge Bar - South Molton - Highly recommended as you can see.

B road to Torrington introduced us to the most testing climbs on the whole trip. A 1:6 shortly followed by two 1:5 long climbs certainly tested the fitness we have been steadily building since John O'Groats. Slight compensation was the current top speed achieved down the other side of one of these rollercoasters, 49.5mph!! Paid the price when my pannier came loose at the bottom of the descent and caused me to make a standing start ascent on the next 1:5!! Phil laughed.



Crossing into Cornwall we took a quiet country lane into the back of Bude and eventually found our guest house which was an unexpected 10 miles further south. Tired and hot. 65 miles.

Day 11 - Bristol to Bampton

Yet again, not an especially early start commenced with breakfast at Morrisons, from there we proceeded into Bristol and visited Brian's dad who sometimes lives in Clifton. Tea consumed we took the Clifton Suspension Bridge and a number of photos and then on westwards to Bridgewater. Great descent from Bristol took us gratefully to the Somerset levels, good speed of around 20mph made progress swift through Highbridge and on to lunch at Bridgewater. Didn't hang around and then took the A38 to Taunton and then a quiet B road to Bampton.

Stopped briefly for Devon border photos and the terrible road surface and the appearnce of proper hills immediately confirmed which county were in!

A plesant and largely uncharacteristic downhill finish led us to Blackberry's, our accommodation for the evening. Comfy surroundings and a good meal were awaiting us.

Around 30 seconds after unloading there was a thunderstorm, including lightening, power cuts and torrential rain (definitely back in Devon), Doreen our host commented that some one was looking after us. 73 miles.

Day 10 - Ludlow to Bristol

After being well fed and cared for by Dover and Stella, we set off up the lane in the direction of Clee Hill, after about 1/2 mile we had to climb a 1:5!! What a wake up. Rode it sitting down, using a low gear. An undulating lane eventually led us to the not insubstantial climbed to the impressive Clee Hill (1260ft), excellent views panoramic views form the west Mildlands, Malvern Hills, Sugar Loaf Mountain and the Black Mountains.

We were then rewarded with a 3 mile downhill reaching speeds of around 46mph. Headed South on the busy A49 which took us to Hereford. Still heading South on what was to prove one of our hottest days we eventually took a B road to Monmouth, this involved one very large and overheating climb before a welcome descent and lunch at Monmouth. Phil changed his back tyre after a fourth puncture and one of my cleats came off my shoe, but managed to replace it at the local bike shop.

Took the quieter B road to Chepstow via Mitchel Troy, which described as undulating and Brian likened to Nepalese mountains, this involved a 3 mile climb which disposed of lots of our water supply and provided superb views over the Sugar Loaf mountain (now from the South side), Brian was unimpressed as it had nothing to do with Malt loaf.

We managed to slipstream a tractor for several miles, cruising at about 27mph on the flat!! ( Don't do this at home children, do it at a friend's house) It had a slighty dodgy looking impliment on which would have been interesting in the event of an emergency stop.

Long downhill from Devauden to Chepstow and the on over the Severn Bridge for some photos and sdaly left the 'Land of my Father's' behind us.

South West now to our expensive accommodation at the picturesque (not) Cribbs Causeway. Ate at TGI Fridays, noisey music allowed for swift transformation into grumpy old men. 85 miles and quite tired.

Day 9 Chester - Dover's House (Nr. Ludlow)

Fast flat early section on a hot sunny day (our first one). Entered Wales east of Wrexham


Oh yes!


Bangor on Dee

Heading due south to Shrewsbury, where we had lunch by the River Severn.


One law abiding, one not! On our way to lunch by the river.


Took the A458 to Bridgenorth (Nr. Uncle Fred's). Brian having withdrawl symptoms for malt loaf. Promising to visit supermarket tomorrow.
After a fast flat start, most of the days climbing was done in the last 15 miles.
Arrived at Dover's house, to sleep in the Piggery and were well fed.
Jessica arrived and provided sports massaged to all three, including Brian in his superman pants.

76.5 miles.

Day 8 Garstang - Chester

Very difficult day with busy roads. Went through Preston, Widnes and St. Helens.


Phil found guilty of not eating Malt Loaf.

Nearly knocked down a pedestrian at a major road junction who walked out in front of me, Phil coming up behind braked sharply and skidded into my left pannier.

Scrap heap near Runcorn Bridge


Runcorn Bridge

Arrived at Chester and stayed in a travel lodge. A beautiful city, well worth a visit.


73.5 miles.

Day 7 Keswick - Garstang

Long climb out of Keswick, reached Windemere which is near to half way at 503 miles.


Proceed to Ambleside which was very pretty. Stopped for lunch at Milthorpe, where in 1880 Miss Rawlings on her way home from evening song fell into the village fountain (which is a hole in the ground). Protective stones ere then placed around said fountain, it was then concreted over in 1941 when a circus elephant fell in it and hurt it's leg.
Next en route was the town of Carnforth. Needed the loo and Brian wanted to look at the railway station. This was the setting for the classic film 'Brief Encounter'.
Bizarrely there was a 1940's themed day and everyone was in period costume!








We then travelled on through Lancaster to our stop off point of Garstag.
Brian was molested in a kareoke pub in Garstang in his banana shorts.
Decided not to stay there and stayed in the Royal Oak across the road.
67.9 miles

Day 6 - Dumfries to Keswick

Awoke to find red squirrels jumping around during breakfast. Proceeded 4 miles to Dumfies where I had to have a bent rear axle replaced, excellent service.

Left the city and took the B road to Gretna Green avoiding the horrendous A74. Made excellent time, covering 31 miles in 2 hours. Took photos at the border and, Brian got married to a Malt Loaf and we proceeded on into England.








Entered Carlisle which we wet and unpleasant, heavy and dangerous traffic. Took the A595 towards Workington, this proved to be busy with close passing lorries and vans and old blokes who toot at you for no good reason. Bad road surface and a head wind for nearly 20 miles proved to be a bit of a trial.

Eventually turned left off this nightmare road towards Keswick and the Lake District.


Good road surface (makes a big difference to the rear end, riding with 2 pairs of shorts on today, the Rolls Royce of saddle comfort), following wind and largely, down hill was an excellent finale as was the extra wind power derived from the spinach omlette eaten at lunch time.



Arrived in Keswick at about 6.30pm (71 miles) where Brian (Judas) Mercer abandoned Phil and I, to stay with his wife and family at the Keswick Park Hotel. Strangely, no sighting of any malt loaf! Will have to watch him for withdrawl symptoms.

Me, Phil and Phil's knee retired to the Hostel (Denton House). Phil sneaked in to see if everything was passable and we retired after a well earned curry. Rest day tomorrow, then inexorably southwards. Will report when I can next get Internet access.

Day 5 - Arran to Mabie Forest

The 10.30 ferry to the mainland was cancelled due to choppy weather, so we had to take the 11.20 which made us late starting. A 50 minute crossing brought us to Ardrossan on the West coat of the mainland. Wet start and negotiating lots of traffic for the 1st time. Very hard going into a head wind for about 32 miles, couldn't make any progress, stopped exhausted and fed up in a small and rather depressing town, where we bolted down a pizza and then commence a 700 foot climb.

Sun then came out and we enjoyed a lovely mountain route and saw virtually no cars for about 25 miles. We were due at our forest lodge, Marthrown of Mabie, in Mabie Forest outside Dumfies, where our landlady, Pam, was cooking Chicken and Mushroom Pie for us. Time was running on and we were very late and tired.

Eventually found Marthrown after a few mistakes and arrived at 10.10pm, really tired and a familiar, end of day, 1.5 mile climb into the forest finish off our hardest day, totalling 90 miles. Backsides are really sore now!!

Brian collects more Maltloaf.

Ate our meal and Brian and I finished the day off with a relaxing soak in a solid fuel outside hot tub surrounded by the forest. Phil retired and nursed his knee.

The Hot Tub at Marthrown of Mabie

Day 4 - Oban to Isle of Arran

The Ferry from Brodick (Arran) back to the mainland (Ardrossan)

Holy Island (in the distance) off Arran


Granite Seal!



The long, long climb from the port of Lochranza at the North of Arran


The ferry from Claonaig to Arran - Just made it!

Donald and Family on their way to camp at the '12 Apostles' get a bit stuck.











Left in the rain, surprise and Phil really struggled with his knee. Cold, wet and head wind, couldn't see what looked like promising scenery. Rain eventually cleared and be came a tail wind.

Stopped for lunch 10 miles from Claoniag, where the ferry takes you to Arran. After stuffing ourselves we realised that we only had 40 minutes to make the next ferry, major effort required and there was a major climb before the 1 mile fast descent to the ferry, made it with 30 seconds to spare, thanks to some folks in a caravan who got stuck going on to the ferry! See caravans can be a blessing!


Arran awaits us.

Phil was careful not to get sea sick, and the breath-taking mountains of Arran loomed before us. A flat section out of the small port of Lochranza turned into a 1.5 mile climb over a pass, then an exhilarating 2 mile down hill blast took us to a largely flat approach to the capital, Brodick. The inevitable 1 mile climb then took us to our B&B, which was excellent. Brian collect more malt loaf. 82 miles.

Day 3 - Fort Augustus to Oban

South of Loch Ness


Ben Nevis - On the road to Fort William

This day would complete our transition from the East to the west coast. Road surfaces are much better than average, some head wind today. Brian had a close encounter with a gormless diver pulling out into the side to us and we caught two elderly cyclists kissing. They later went passed us when we were on one our numerous toilet and food stops and Brian tactfully called out 'we saw you kissing' as they glided passed. The man was amused, but his wife definitely wasn't!!

We are averaging about 4500ft of climbing each day in Scotland, which is tough when you are carry so much malt loaf, but still manageable. Phil's knee is now really hurting and he is taking Ibuprofen like sweets.

A cruel climb and then swift descent saw us enter Oban and we found our accommodation, the eccentric, Jeremy Inglis Hostel right in the centre. Bikes had to be carried up 3 flight of stairs and placed on a flat roof. Large communal kitchen, comfy room, good value, just slightly odd!

Oban is the gateway to Western Isles and many ferries de[part from here, including to the nearby Isle of Mull, whose main town is Tobermory AKA Ballamory. Hope you are reading Modbury School! We didn't sing any daft theme tunes.

79 miles.

Day 2 - Rogart to Fort Augustus

The view back to the bridge north of Inverness - a 600ft climb!

Managed to find a nice B road which took us south towards Inverness, did some substantial climbing and excellent downhills on the mountain roads. Brian is now handicapped by the extra supplies of malt loaf and energy bars that he has had posted to each destination!! He's panicked about running short of 'fuel', obviously there are no shops in Scotland. I've told him to get a grip!



The aftermath of Rock Ness
Heading South West, and still with the wind behind us (joy) we head towards the top end of Loch Ness, the water came into view, but we were distracted by an incredible sight on our left hand side. We were passing the venue for the recently held music concert, Rock Ness (featuring Prodigy amongst others). What was beyond belief, was the absolute mess the fields had been left in. We could see about 10 acres and it was knee-deep in litter, hundreds of abandoned tents (most of which seemed perfectly OK), picnic chairs and other debris. The bulldozers were standing by to scrape up the whole lot and dump it in the skips. Never seen anything like it.
This surreal scene was contrasted by the impressive Ness in the background and surrounding very large mountains.


The impressive Loch Ness

We chose the minor road on the East side of the Loch, avoiding the busy and dangerous A82 on the opposite side. Lovely route, the only down side was the horrendous 1200ft climb at the end of the Loch which came at 70 miles, groan, and yes, the rain tipped down again. This made for an interesting descent with stinging eyes to our destination, Stavaigers Lodge at Fort Augustus (pretty, worth a visit). 84miles. Cooked tea, walked around the town which is right at the south end of Ness and has a step lock and canal running through the centre. Got bitten by midges, applied Avon Skin so Soft and that saw off the wee beasties. Brian receives more malt loaf.

The pretty town of Fort Augustus at the bottom end of Loch Ness

Day 1 - John O'Groats to Rogart

At last, after having software compatibility issues with phone and blog, I have found an internet cafe.

The flight from Bristol to Inverness took an amazing 65 minutes, then caught the train from Inverness to Thurso (nearly 4 hours on a single track line), with some stunning scenery through the Highlands. Saw many red deer, including stags with full antlers and some impressive highland cattle.

Caught a taxi from Thurso to JOG Youth Hostel, driver was a little preoccupied pointing out the Queen Mother's former residence and not keeping his eye on the road!!

Went straight to bed at the hostel, and awoke to find that breakfast was not provided!! Brian scrounged some teabags and we devoured fruit cake and flap jack before departing in the rain at 9 degrees C.

3 miles later arrived at John O'Groats, took photos, looked at the rather tatty and bleak surroundings and then proceeded southwards .... in the rain! Compensation was the following tale wind, and we didn't change out of our large chain rings until 42 miles, prompted by a rather hideous 1 mile long 1:8.

Stopped at about 50 miles and had a very large haddock and chips lunch (mistake) and proceeded South feeling rather bloated.

Eventually arrived at our hostel in Rogart, the accommodation, in some first class railway carriages. Very comfy and quaint. 82 miles, 5.5 hours, 14.9 m/hr average speed.

Sorry no photos yet, can't get them off the telephone